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Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke Custom Suit

Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke Custom Suit

What is the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke? Lately both terms are starting to be used interchangeably, but they are very different. Yes, both made-to-measure and bespoke suits are custom made from scratch, but there are some very important differences in how "custom" each custom suit really is.

Made-to-Measure

A made-to-measure custom suit is created using a pre-existing suit pattern. This suit pattern is resized using your measurements as a guide, but not reshaped. All the curves and angles are predetermined by the pattern rather than conforming to your specific body geometry. After the pattern is resized, the custom suit is constructed to completion. If any adjustments are needed the suit will need to be taken apart and altered.

The benefit to a made-to-measure custom suit is that you are still able to choose all the details, style, and options of how the custom suit will look. The major drawback is that the custom suit pattern was not created for you, it was only resized. Made-to-measure custom suits typically will only get you part way there when it comes to the correct fit.

Bespoke

When people say, “They don’t make things like they used to…” they are talking about bespoke custom suits. Your measurements and all the curves and angles of your body geometry are used to create your bespoke custom suit pattern. A rough cut of the suit is assembled and multiple fittings are performed as the suit is being constructed. This allows the tailor to account for every unique detail and asymmetry of the body. Everything about a bespoke suit is created from scratch resulting in a much sturdier construction and better fit.

Ultimately a custom suit that is made bespoke is the way to go if you're looking for superior craftsmanship and a lifetime of quality. We never cut corners at Hudson Custom Suits and all of our suits are made bespoke.

Reach out to us if you are interested in learning more about what we do or would like to set up a fitting.

hello@hudsonsuits.com or 949-478-4832

Suit Jacket Canvas

Suit Jacket Canvas

Between the fabric and jacket lining is a layer of canvas which gives your custom suit jacket its shape and structure. There are 3 main variations to how the canvas is attached to the jacket.

  1. Full Floating Canvas

    Full Floating Canvas means that the canvas covers the full length of the front of the jacket and is stitched into place. This method allows the canvas to adjust and conform to your body in a very natural way. Full floating canvas is the traditional way to construct a suit and is also the most labor intensive. Custom suits constructed in this way also have the longest lifespan when compared to other suit canvasing styles. Hudson Custom Suits always puts full floating canvas in every suit we make unless you request otherwise.

  2. Half Canvas

    Half Canvas means the suit canvas is still stitched into place (floating), but only extends half way down the front of the jacket. The bottom half of the suit jacket might have fused canvas or no canvas at all. You might choose half canvas if you are trying to make your jacket more light weight, but you still want to have some structure to the jacket.

  3. Fused Canvas

    Fused Canvas means that the suit canvas is attached using an adhesive. Essentially, the canvas is glued into place. This is the fastest and cheapest way to attach suit canvas, which is why it is most commonly found in suits off-the-rack. Some of the biggest drawbacks are that the jacket will feel more stiff and eventually the adhesive breaks down causing the fabric to form bubbles like a bad window tinting job. The adhesive breakdown is caused by the heat from cleaning and pressing which means this style of suit canvas has the shortest lifespan.

  4. Uncanvased

    Uncavased suit means nothing is between the suit fabric and the inner suit lining. In some cases uncanvased suits don’t even have an inner lining. The advantage to an uncanvased suit is that it is extremely light weight and breathable, but will have a much more casual relaxed vibe.

    If you have any questions about the different canvasing styles or would like to set up a fitting, feel free to reach out to us: hello@hudsonsuits.com or 949-478-4832